Knurlies are the first screws out there specially designed for eurorack. Engineered with love by Befaco to make re-arranging your case a matter of minutes!Knurlies can be fastened by hand, Phillips, slot or Allen. And brings a plastic washer already in place to avoid rack rash.These screws are M3x7mm so they can be used also on those 3mm thick panels as well as regular 2mm ones.Knurlies design is released under CC-NC-SA License. With the addendum, don’t be a jerk: Use it, make your own, but if you plan to make some money out of the idea CONTACT US FIRST.Features:• Available as M3 and M2.5• 7mm long• Phillips, slot, Allen and thumb enabled!• Flat-tight Washer to avoid rack rash.
This is a new double rail! If you build a case with two or more rows, you can place this one in the middle and save 1 rail. Instead of 4 rails you only need 3 for a two row system.We recommend to use them with our new side brackets 3U + 1U, which need 2 low profile rails and 1 double rail to create a resulting frame of 1x 3U + 1x 1U (Intellijel).Rail (one piece, threaded strip not included) for building DIY Eurorack cases. 84 HP = 427mm, 104 HP = 529mm, 114 HP = 579mm, 126 HP = 640mm, 168 HP = 854mm, 196 HP = 996mm.Type A rails feature a lid, which holds your modules in place so they cannot move up and down.For building your case you also might need some additionals: threaded strips and M3 screws holding your modules and M5 screws for mounting the rails (we have various types of screws here). As an alternative to the M3 threaded strips you can also use M3 slide nuts.The hole where the M5 screw sits later has no threading - an M5 screw will carve its way when you insert them. Alternatively you could use a tapping tool, but it's not really necessary.
This is a new double rail! If you build a case with two or more rows, you can place this one in the middle and save 1 rail. Instead of 4 rails you only need 3 for a two row system.We recommend to use them with our new side brackets 3U + 1U, which need 2 low profile rails and 1 double rail to create a resulting frame of 1x 3U + 1x 1U (Intellijel).Rail (one piece, threaded strip not included) for building DIY Eurorack cases. 84 HP = 427mm, 104 HP = 529mm, 114 HP = 579mm, 126 HP = 640mm, 168 HP = 854mm, 196 HP = 996mm.Type A rails feature a lid, which holds your modules in place so they cannot move up and down.For building your case you also might need some additionals: threaded strips and M3 screws holding your modules and M5 screws for mounting the rails (we have various types of screws here). As an alternative to the M3 threaded strips you can also use M3 slide nuts.The hole where the M5 screw sits later has no threading - an M5 screw will carve its way when you insert them. Alternatively you could use a tapping tool, but it's not really necessary.
These ones are smaller and lighter than the standard ones. The basis is the same as Type B standard but without the whole back.Rail (one piece, threaded strip not included) for building DIY Eurorack cases. 84 HP = 427mm, 104 HP = 529mm, 114 HP = 579mm, 126 HP = 640mm, 168 HP = 854mm, 196 HP = 996mm.Type A rails feature a lid, which holds your modules in place so they cannot move up and down.For building your case you also might need some additionals: threaded strips and M3 screws holding your modules and M5 screws for mounting the rails (we have various types of screws here). As an alternative to the M3 threaded strips you can also use M3 slide nuts.The hole where the M5 screw sits later has no threading - an M5 screw will carve its way when you insert them. Alternatively you could use a tapping tool, but it's not really necessary.
These ones are smaller and lighter than the standard ones. The basis is the same as Type B standard but without the whole back.Rail (one piece, threaded strip not included) for building DIY Eurorack cases. 84 HP = 427mm, 104 HP = 529mm, 114 HP = 579mm, 126 HP = 640mm, 168 HP = 854mm, 196 HP = 996mm.Type A rails feature a lid, which holds your modules in place so they cannot move up and down.For building your case you also might need some additionals: threaded strips and M3 screws holding your modules and M5 screws for mounting the rails (we have various types of screws here). As an alternative to the M3 threaded strips you can also use M3 slide nuts.The hole where the M5 screw sits later has no threading - an M5 screw will carve its way when you insert them. Alternatively you could use a tapping tool, but it's not really necessary.
These ones are smaller and lighter than the standard ones. The basis is the same as Type B standard but without the whole back.Type B rails DO NOT feature a lid, they are thinner.Rail (one piece, threaded strip not included) for building DIY Eurorack cases. 84 HP = 427mm, 104 HP = 529mm, 114 HP = 579mm, 126 HP = 640mm, 168 HP = 854mm, 196 HP = 996mm.For building your case you also might need some additionals: threaded strips and M3 screws holding your modules and M5 screws for mounting the rails (we have various types of screws here). As an alternative to the M3 threaded strips you can also use M3 slide nuts.The hole where the M5 screw sits later has no threading - an M5 screw will carve its way when you insert them. Alternatively you could use a tapping tool, but it's not really necessary.
Rail (one piece, threaded strip not included) for building DIY Eurorack cases. Black anodized aluminium.84 HP = 427mm, 104 HP = 529mm, 114 HP = 579mm, 126 HP = 640mm, 168 HP = 854mm, 196 HP = 996mm.Type A rails feature a lid, which holds your modules in place so they cannot move up and down.For building your case you also might need some additionals: threaded strips and M3 screws holding your modules and M5 screws for mounting the rails (we have various types of screws here). As an alternative to the M3 threaded strips you can also use M3 slide nuts.The hole where the M5 screw sits later has no threading - an M5 screw will carve its way when you insert them. Alternatively you could use a tapping tool, but it's not really necessary.
Rail (one piece, threaded strip not included) for building DIY Eurorack cases. Silver anodized aluminium.84 HP = 427mm, 104 HP = 529mm, 114 HP = 579mm, 126 HP = 640mm, 168 HP = 854mm, 196 HP = 996mm.Type A rails feature a lid, which holds your modules in place so they cannot move up and down.For building your case you also might need some additionals: threaded strips and M3 screws holding your modules and M5 screws for mounting the rails (we have various types of screws here). As an alternative to the M3 threaded strips you can also use M3 slide nuts.The hole where the M5 screw sits later has no threading - an M5 screw will carve its way when you insert them. Alternatively you could use a tapping tool, but it's not really necessary.
Rail (one piece, threaded strip not included) for building DIY Eurorack cases. Silver anodized aluminium.84 HP = 427mm, 104 HP = 529mm, 114 HP = 579mm, 126 HP = 640mm, 168 HP = 854mm, 196 HP = 996mm.Type B rails DO NOT feature a lid, they are thinner. For building your case you also might need some additionals: threaded strips and M3 screws holding your modules and M5 screws for mounting the rails (we have various types of screws here).As an alternative to the M3 threaded strips you can also use M3 slide nuts.The hole where the M5 screw sits later has no threading - an M5 screw will carve its way when you insert them. Alternatively you could use a tapping tool, but it's not really necessary.
Side Brackets 3U - 3D Printed - Standard Rails - Type A - Black• Cheap alternative for Alu side brackets• You can insert threaded strips or slide-nuts without dismounting the frame• Beautifully rounded corners match the lid of the railsThis is only the brackets (always one pair), NOT the rails or whole frames! You need additional rails, M5 screws and threaded strips or slide-nuts. Others might call them side-parts, side-cheecks or side-panels.With these brackets you can easily build stable and precise Eurorack frames and mount them in your DIY case. Just take your rail length + 2x3mm and you have the resulting width of your frame.There are some different rail types on the market - these are made for the Exploding Shed rails. Might fit for others, but you should have a closer look before. We won't take scratched side brackets back! When you buy all stuff here, you are sure that all fits together in the end.Standard Rails vs. Low Profile RailsIt is possible to use the side brackets made for standard rails with low profile rails instead Then you have an overhang at the back, but who cares, as you don't see it later.Type A vs. Type BNever mix Type A with Type B stuff! That won't fit.Height: 3U & 1U - What does it mean?One normal Eurorack module is 3U in height. 5U would be the bigger Moog format, but we're mainly all Eurorack addicts here. 6U is basically 2 rows a 3U then. 1U is the smaller "tile" format which exists as Intellijel size and the less prominent Pulp Logic size. We focus on Intellijel size here.Screws vs. BracketsAll side brackets are 3mm thick. With the standard M5 countersunk screws it might happen that the transition between threading of the screw and screw head (where it's still slim) looks slightly through the bracket in direction of the rail. To make the bracket really sit 100% tight on the side of the rail, you probably have to use a countersink (drill) like this (https://www.obi.de/senker/lux-handsenker-hss-12-mm/p/4949624) or this (https://www.obi.de/senker/lux-senker-comfort-12-mm/p/5816764) to open the hole on the rail side a bit and make sure the last 1/4mm or so of the screw head can sink through the bracket into the hole of the rail itself. Then the construction will be maximum stable. You have to do that yourself.
Side Brackets 3U - 3D Printed - Standard Rails - Type A - Grey• Cheap alternative for Alu side brackets• You can insert threaded strips or slide-nuts without dismounting the frame• Beautifully rounded corners match the lid of the railsThis is only the brackets (always one pair), NOT the rails or whole frames! You need additional rails, M5 screws and threaded strips or slide-nuts. Others might call them side-parts, side-cheecks or side-panels.With these brackets you can easily build stable and precise Eurorack frames and mount them in your DIY case. Just take your rail length + 2x3mm and you have the resulting width of your frame.There are some different rail types on the market - these are made for the Exploding Shed rails. Might fit for others, but you should have a closer look before. We won't take scratched side brackets back! When you buy all stuff here, you are sure that all fits together in the end.Standard Rails vs. Low Profile RailsIt is possible to use the side brackets made for standard rails with low profile rails instead Then you have an overhang at the back, but who cares, as you don't see it later.Type A vs. Type BNever mix Type A with Type B stuff! That won't fit.Height: 3U & 1U - What does it mean?One normal Eurorack module is 3U in height. 5U would be the bigger Moog format, but we're mainly all Eurorack addicts here. 6U is basically 2 rows a 3U then. 1U is the smaller "tile" format which exists as Intellijel size and the less prominent Pulp Logic size. We focus on Intellijel size here.Screws vs. BracketsAll side brackets are 3mm thick. With the standard M5 countersunk screws it might happen that the transition between threading of the screw and screw head (where it's still slim) looks slightly through the bracket in direction of the rail. To make the bracket really sit 100% tight on the side of the rail, you probably have to use a countersink (drill) like this (https://www.obi.de/senker/lux-handsenker-hss-12-mm/p/4949624) or this (https://www.obi.de/senker/lux-senker-comfort-12-mm/p/5816764) to open the hole on the rail side a bit and make sure the last 1/4mm or so of the screw head can sink through the bracket into the hole of the rail itself. Then the construction will be maximum stable. You have to do that yourself.
€9.90*
This website uses cookies to ensure the best experience possible. More information...